It isn’t easy growing trees and shrubs in Wyoming -- one look at the prairies suggests they aren’t in the cards.

But residents can successfully grow trees and shrubs and, to make the effort worthwhile, the University of Wyoming Cooperative Extension Service has developed an action plan consisting of seven planting strategies.

*Location, location, location. This real estate term says it all when determining where to plant a tree or shrub. Never plant trees next to a home or outbuilding. No matter how small they are when planted, trees grow up. They can interfere with the integrity of a foundation, and the long-term health of the tree can be compromised.

Larger tree species should be planted at least 20 feet from a foundation, and shrubs should be kept at least five feet away. As corny as this sounds, look up before planting. If there are utility lines above the planting site, move the tree. In 10 years this will pay off.

Wind is a serious problem for most of Wyoming, and planting locations should be carefully considered so drifting snow won’t become an issue.

*Site preparation. Prepare the planting site by spading or rototilling an area at least two times the diameter of the root ball (example: if the root ball is 2 feet across then the area to be tilled will be 4 feet).

Dig the hole only as deep as to the top of the root crown -- the area on a tree where the roots start to grow. Planting deeper may result in the death of the tree. It is much better for the tree to err on planting too shallow than too deep.

*Amend the soil? The research is fairly clear -- don’t. Adding peat moss or aged manures into the planting soil mix provides no benefit to the trees. Research has shown that, in some cases, this can actually hurt a tree’s ability to survive and flourish.

*Remove all man-made items from the root ball. Things like wire, burlap and string need to be removed once the tree is in place but before backfilling begins.  If left, these materials can cause severe root girdling.

*Watering. Think in thirds. After a tree is planted, backfill the hole with soil until it is about one-third full, and add water. This helps to eliminate air pockets that may have occurred. Make sure all air pockets are filled in with water. Continue this process until completed, but don’t tamp the soil. Air pockets should be eliminated without packing the soil.

*Fertilizing. It seems natural to add fertilizer to a newly planted tree. After all, that’s the common strategy in the garden. Adding fertilizer to a newly planted tree, however, can actually harm it. The tree needs to adapt to its new site, not produce a crop, and unlike a tomato plant that may get a full dose of fertilizer, a tree has many more years to grow and produce.

In general, one can begin to fertilize trees in the year following planting, typically in late May or early June. A soil test done with the assistance of a UW extension office will help determine a tree’s fertilizer requirements.

*Mulching the tree area. Next to proper planting depth, mulching is one of the most important steps to ensure the survival of trees and shrubs. Use coarse textured mulch like wood or bark chips, or rock. Usually, wood mulch is preferred, but in high-wind areas, pea gravel to fist-sized rocks are recommended.

Mulch does extraordinary things like allowing longer retention of soil moisture from the drying effects of the sun and wind. By applying mulch to the surface, water usage can be cut up to 75 percent.

Mulch reduces the compaction of soils around a tree allowing roots to grow easily into the soil. It keeps soils cooler in the summer and offers insulation in the winter, and it also helps to keep grass and weeds away from trees, eliminating potential damage caused by weed trimmers and lawn mowers.