It won’t take too many nice days before we all get the urge to plant a tree.

That’s a great thought, but here’s a better one: Let’s plant those trees correctly so that they will not only live but also thrive. It is sad but true that most trees die from complications of being planted too deeply. Those that survive often fall prey to the avenging lawnmower or attacking weedwhacker. We can do better.

The Pennington County Extension Office has a free, one-page tutorial called “Planting a Tree.” Here is a summary of the most important points:.

n Dig the hole 3 to 5 times wider than the diameter of the root ball. For example, if the container or burlap ball is 18 inches in diameter, you want a hole that will be 7-1/2 feet in diameter.

-- Dig the hole no deeper than the root ball, or if the tree is in a container, no deeper than the soil line on the potted tree. In heavy clay soils, set the ball 1 to 2 inches higher than the ground surface.

-- The planting area should look like a shallow saucer, not a pit.

-- It is very important to set the root ball on firm, undisturbed soil.

-- Break up or score the sides of the planting area with a rake or shovel.

-- Carefully move the tree by lifting the container or the root ball. Do not lift it by the trunk. That is as uncomfortable for the tree as it would be for us to be lifted by the neck rather than in a sling that we could sit in.

-- After the tree is in correct planting position, gently remove twine and burlap or cut the wire basket away or cut and remove the plastic container around the root ball. It is a myth to believe that tree roots will grow through wire baskets, burlap or any other impediments. Remove it all, thoroughly and gently.

n Refill the hole using the same soil that you removed to dig the hole. You may want to break up some of the native soil with a hand trowel in the wheelbarrow to loosen it. Do not add peat or fertilizers. Fill the hole about one-third full, and add water to settle the soil. Repeat that process until the soil is settled at the root collar (where the trunk flares in the transition between root and trunk) or the old soil line. Add more water.

-- Apply 2 to 4 inches (in depth) of organic mulch, city yardwaste compost or well-rotted woodchips to cover the entire planting area (all 7-1/2 feet of it in our example) but leave 4 to 6 inches of clear space right next to the trunk. Note that there is no good purpose in laying down weed barrier; neither are rocks and gravel and appropriate mulch for trees in our clayey soils. Good, organic compost will be a fine weed barrier; it will keep the soil moist and feed the roots.

-- There is no need to wrap a trunk. If you have planted correctly, there is no need to stake. You may want to protect the tree from deer interest and also restrict soil compaction from foot traffic by placing a wire cage completely around the outside perimeter of the planting area.

-- Do not prune at planting unless a branch is broken.

-- Water the entire planting area. If that soil stays light and uncompacted, mulch and watered (the top 2 or 3 inches of soil should be moist enough to form a little ball when squeezed in your hand), the tree roots will quickly establish themselves and the tree will be happy and thrive.

Tree and plant prof to speak

An educator known internationally for his programs about selection and care of trees in the urban setting will be the featured presenter at the 25th annual Rapid City Urban Forestry Board Lawn and Tree Care Workshop

Edward Gilman, professor of Urban Trees and Landscape Plants, Department of Environmental Horticulture, University of Florida, will present a multi-media program on Wednesday, March 8, at the Pennington County Extension Building, 601 East Centre Street.

Registration begins at 8 a.m. A fee of $10 is payable at the door.

Sessions include tree biology at 8:35 a.m., tree structure at 9 a.m., nursery selection and planting issues at 10:30 a.m., planting trees at 11 a.m., root growth after planting at 1 p.m., and pruning to develop and maintain a sustainable tree canopy at 1:30 p.m. No lunch will be served.

The event is open to the public.

The workshop is being hosted by the Rapid City Urban Forestry Board.

Gilman has received international recognition and awards for his education programs with special emphasis on electronic based horticulture information. (His Web site at www.hort.ufl.edu/woody is a bonanza of information and superior photographs and drawings.